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The race to save a bombing range butterfly

Plus, fixing the Breezewood bottleneck.

Welcome to PA Local, a free weekly newsletter about the great people, amazing places, and delicious food of Pennsylvania.
Your Postmaster: Colin Deppen

August 30, 2024
 
Inside this edition: Bumper to bumper, Breezewood 2.0, river circus, big drop, siphoning coffee, and the butterfly effect. Thanks for checking in. 
A Pennsylvania-centric trivia question.
Which of these Pennsylvania towns is home to the oldest continuously operating railroad in America?

A. Altoona
B. Erie
C. Hummelstown
D. Strasburg
(Keep scrolling for the answer, but don't miss all the good stuff in between. Like what you read? Forward this email to a friend.)
Our five favorite Pennsylvania stories of the week.
» One car worth seeing: What do you get when you combine a motorcycle, a Chevy Aveo, and a few trips to Knoebels ? This giant, roadworthy bumper car handmade in Lackawanna County.

» One idea worth watching: Breezewood, only better. The Wall Street Journal got an engineer to "fix" the traffic chokepoint seen in an iconic photo of the Pennsylvania rest stop known as "Gas Vegas." 

» One circus worth joining: The Flotsam River Circus kicked off their Ohio River Tour in Pittsburgh, and City Paper has photos. Next stop? Harris Riverfront Park in Huntington, West Virginia.

» One ride worth fearing: The tallest pendulum ride in the world is coming to Hersheypark in 2025. Twizzlers Twisted Gravity takes riders 137 feet up and then down at 68 miles per hour.

» One coffee worth drinking: Siphon coffee is being done right at Ray's Cafe and Tea House in Philadelphia. The backward style of brewing, in which water moves up, rather than down, is mesmerizing.


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A butterfly in tall grass.
The regal fritillary butterfly. (Via Wikimedia Commons)
REGAL RESCUE

The eastern regal fritillary butterfly once floated across meadows from North Carolina to Maine. Now the range of the vividly patterned insect is reduced to a single foothold inside the busiest National Guard training center in the country: Pennsylvania’s Fort Indiantown Gap. 

The military base spans 17,000 acres in Lebanon and Dauphin Counties. It can host well over 100,000 personnel in a given year for small arms, air-to-ground bomb training, and more. And in the midst of all the rumbling and explosions (it gets loud), the last of the eastern fritillaries have made their home — not in spite of the bombings but because of them. 

The violets, bunch grass, and nectar plants required by the insect have long been propagated, or at least encouraged, by ordnance and machines that churn the soil and limit the tree cover. 

In the 1990s, a conservation-focused nonprofit brought a lawsuit over military plans to turn the butterfly’s habitat at Fort Indiantown Gap into a tank range. The case almost halted all training at the base, but ended with a settlement that saw hundreds of acres set aside.

But because the insect’s range remains so miniscule, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service this summer recommended it be placed on the endangered species list for the first time. A “threatened” label has been recommended for the western regal fritillary subspecies found from Montana to Oklahoma.

“The decline of the regal fritillary, along with the loss of other pollinators are indicators that something is ecologically out of balance,” said Pam Shellenberger, a biologist with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Pennsylvania field office in State College. 

Reintroduction efforts are underway in Pennsylvania but slow going. An abandoned surface mine owned by the Game Commission has shown promise. It’s located in an undisclosed county that used to have fritillary butterflies, and has an ecology that suits them. But it’s not clear yet if it’s enough to establish another tenacious population.

An aerial shot of roads and buildings at a sprawling military base.
Fort Indiantown Gap. (U.S. Army National Guard photo by Sgt. Christopher Leghart)
“The butterflies they are reintroducing there are showing to be a bit smaller than the ones at Fort Indiantown Gap, and they’re trying to figure out: Is that because they’re lab-reared? Is it because they just don’t have the violets or enough food sources to eat before they pupate?” Shellenberger explained. Conservationists are discussing cultivating violets, the butterfly’s favorite host, to help them. The trial and error is ongoing. The butterfly is finicky. 

The species’ arc is familiar: Logging opened up grasslands across the Northeast. Over time, things like development consumed those plains or the trees returned. Neither change works well for the fritillaries, which prefer the kinds of sparse, uncluttered environments often left behind by natural forces like high winds, downed trees, and fires that eliminate biological competition for plants like violets. 

At Fort Indiantown Gap, man-made explosions and controlled burns replicate nature’s stanching power and have allowed a fritillary population now numbered at around 1,000 to carry on. The work is quite involved, organizers say. 

“Occasionally trees will pop up in there and we’ll remove them by hand. If it’s a big enough job we have some devices we can go in with and sort of eat away at the forest that’s growing up,” explained Mark Swartz, an invertebrate wildlife program manager at Fort Indiantown Gap. 

Swartz said no one is exactly sure how or when the butterfly was first discovered at the base. In one version, a reservist recognizes the insect, already in decline, and rings the higher-ups. In another, a team of biologists doing a construction survey makes the discovery.

Either way, Swartz says, “it became a whole thing,” and 20 years later a conservation effort continues. Off base, a broader rescue effort is mounting in the form of a fritillary butterfly rearing and reintroduction program that’s seeing varying degrees of success. 

“We’ve tried it a few places and when the habitat’s not right, you know right away,” Swartz said of the program, which counts Hershey’s ZooAmerica and several state agencies as partners. 

Swartz has a pet theory that old coal mines offer favorable conditions for the plants fritillaries love, an idea he’d like to test out in another legacy coal state. “I’ve been wanting to look in West Virginia for a while,” he said.

New sites are always being recommended and Swartz said a small but mighty team is moving as fast as it can to vet them: “There are other places out there we definitely need to explore.” 

The butterfly’s proposed endangered species listing is open for public comment through Oct. 7, 2024, online or by mail. The comments will be considered by policymakers. 

Butterfly tours at Fort Indiantown Gap resume next summer.

Colin Deppen, newsletter editor
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A quote from a Pennsylvanian that we found interesting this week.
"The bottom line is that quiet makes us healthier and happier human beings."

Matt Mikkelsen of Quiet Parks International, a nonprofit that helps municipalities and conservation groups preserve quiet spaces; Pennsylvania doesn't have an official "quiet park," but you can nominate one here
Our favorite reader-submitted photo of the week.
Bee vision, via @noraodendahl. Penn State reports trained community scientists have found multiple new species of bee in Pennsylvania, and they were far more efficient than users of a popular biodiversity app. Send us photos by email, use #PAGems on IG, or tag @spotlightpennsylvania.
A bee on a flower.
The answer to this week's Pennsylvania-centric trivia question.
The answer to this week's question — "Which of these Pennsylvania towns is home to the oldest continuously operating railroad in America?" — is "D. Strasburg" in Lancaster County. 

You can take a gorgeous, steam-powered ride through Amish Country. Raphael Snow has an excellent documentary on its history: "through the Civil War, World Wars, industrialization, and the rise of cars and highways ... While the world and the country have certainly changed in the last two centuries, the Strasburg Railroad has not."
 
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